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1. Which Floor Is Best For Which Room?

It's impractical to perceive the cost of a new floor without knowing how much of it you need. Unless you're maths proficient, it can be pretty harsh to start measuring your room for wood flooring or LVT flooring, so we have an easy method you can use.

If your room is a rectangle, this is as painless as calculating the length and width of your space and multiplying them together. Thus, if your room is 6 metres long and 3 metres wide, the area will be 18 metres square because 6 x 3 = 18

If your room isn't rectangular, we suggest dividing it into rectangular units. Multiply the width and length of each rectangle together to calculate the area. Then, add the areas of each rectangle together to compute the total area. If you have an L-formed room, for example, this can be divided into 2 rectangles.

And if you've got a complex room, this technique still works. Simply divide the room into as many rectangles as needed. Multiply the length and width of each rectangle to calculate the areas, then add them all together to compute the total area. (Remember to jot down the measures as you go along!)

Important tip

" It's standard to add an extra 5% to your area to allow for the usual wastage that arises during installation. To estimate this, you'll require to multiply the total area by 1.05. However, parquet and tiled floors where the fitting starts in the middle of the room fall out 7-10% wastage as it's likely you'll have to cut more boards than with a regular, straight-lay plan."

2.Which Floor Is Best For Which Room?

Before selecting your new floor, it's crucial to make sure it's suitable for use in the room you plan to install it. Not all floors are appropriate for use in bathrooms, conservatories, or with underfloor heating. Use the chart below to help you decide which flooring style would be most suitable for your conditions.

Key: 1. Good to go!
2. Not recommended.
3. Not urged, except for Juncker floors.

Lacquered floors give more protection than oiled floors, but all spills should dry out as quickly as possible. Mop up collapses quickly, or choose one of T-build's waterproof laminates Only Coir and Sisal should be utilised on stairs, whereas Jute and Seagrass should be avoided.

Living Rooms

In general, living rooms have stable temperatures, low wetness levels, and low footfall, all of which are good news for any floor. This means there is no restriction on which floors you can use. It’s possibly where you take guests, too, so be certain to use this room to make an impression.

Kitchens

Vinyl, laminate, and lacquered engineered floors are all invented to oppose the hostility of a busy kitchen. They can control moisture, splashes, and scrapes - though remember to mop up spillages as soon as possible. Solid wood, natural carpet, and oiled engineered floors aren’t as strong, so we would advise opposing them.

Bathrooms

Vinyl and laminate floors can revolt against the high levels of moisture encountered in bathrooms, so these are the floors we’d suggest. Changes in moisture can harm natural carpets and solid wood floors over time, and engineered floors aren’t as good at opposing splashes. Whatever floor you employ, be sure to dry up spillages as soon as possible.

Conservatories

Vinyl, laminate, engineered and natural carpets are all good to use in a conservatory. The big temperature variation means the dampness in solid wood floors will rise and fall. For this reason, solid wood floors are likely to shrink and extend in conservatories.

Underfloor Heating

Engineered, laminate and luxury vinyl tiles are all suitable (although always review with the product manufacturer.) Due to their reaction to heat, solid wood floors (except for Juncker floors) are not appropriate for underfloor heating. Unfortunately, our natural carpets are also not secured against underfloor heating.

Basements

Vinyl, laminate, engineered, and natural carpets are all good. Basements can change hugely in temperature, which means the moisture in solid wood floors will grow and drop. For this reason, solid wood floors could shrink and extend in basements.

Stairs

Laminate, engineered, and solid wood can all be planted on stairs. They are all durable and grippy enough to prevent any potential accidents, unlike vinyl which should be prevented. Coir and Sisal carpets are safe to apply, but we'd avoid Jute or Seagrass.

3.What Is The Difference Between Solid & Engineered Wooden Flooring?

When they’re on the floor, engineered boards look equivalent to solid wood. This can confuse the people who wonder what the difference between them is. Well, the reality is, whilst engineered and solid wood floors look the same, they can act (and react) pretty differently. In the simplest words, engineered floors are tougher, but solid wood floors can last longer. For a more in-depth description, see our comparison table below:

Solid Wood Flooring

  • Construction

    Solid wood floorboards are scraped from single parts of timber. This makes them the most superficial of all our floors in terms of structure.

  • Moisture

    Due to the core of solid wood, these floors could become harmed by moisture from above and below. A hot room could cause them to dry out and shrink, whereas a cold room could push them to absorb moisture and extend. Thus, solid wood floors can’t be set in conservatories, basements, and bathrooms. Except for Juncker floors, solid wood floors are also not suggested for use with underfloor heating.

  • Scratches

    If they collect too many dents or scrapes over the years, solid wood floors can be filed down and re-finished many times. This means they can endure a lifetime and that is why they reach with such great warranties.

Engineered Flooring

  • Construction

    Engineered floors are constructed from several layers of wood pressed together. The top layer is always covered with solid wood – just like regular solid wood flooring. However, under this top layer is the essence which can be constructed from HDF, plywood, or softwood.

  • Moisture

    All the layers of engineered wood run in various directions, which makes engineered floors very durable, with high resistance to shifts in moisture. This signifies you can lay engineered flooring in rooms where solid wood flooring could be harmed, such as basements, conservatories, and rooms with underfloor heating.

  • Scratches

    If they collect too many dents or scratches over the years, most engineered floors can be filed down and refinished. Yet, the procedure can’t usually be taken as many times as with solid floors.

4.LVT vs Laminate Flooring

Here, we examine the main differences between luxury vinyl tile (LVT) and laminate flooring, this will assist you to choose which is most suitable for your home!
At first, they can both appear pretty similar but below the surface, there are a fair few contrasts between them.

What is laminate flooring made of?

Laminate is built from High-Density Fibre boards - tiny parts of recycled wood pulp pressed together under strongly high pressure. This is a very environmentally friendly way of production which makes laminate suitable and affordable.

What is LVT made of?

LVT is built from PVC-based materials, which makes it incredibly tough. Because of this, LVT usually has longer warranties and is normally quieter and warmer underfoot when compared to laminate floors.

Which is waterproof?

Whilst there are ranges of laminate floors which are assured waterproof including these Quick-Step waterproof laminates, all other laminate boards can be damaged from water sitting on them for extended periods so it's most suitable to mop up spills as quickly as possible.
Every LVT content is built from PVC which is 100% waterproof - it's why they're so famous in bathrooms. This also offers you more freedom over layout choice.

Durability

LVT and laminate flooring are both long-lasting. Both floors are good at resisting scratches, thanks to the hard wear layer that each board/tile is coated with. This means both floors are excellent for areas with high traffic.
The contrast between the two is that it is possible to recoat an LVT floor with a new wear layer, which isn't viable for laminate floors. However, in most circumstances, if you scratch or dent a small part of it's often doable to replace that tile or board.

Installing LVT vs laminate flooring

All laminate floors are hooked using a built-in locking mechanism and applied over an underlay (known as a floating floor system) with no necessity for glue or nails. This drives installing laminate floors, a potential DIY job. Vinyl floors, meanwhile, are mainly glued down, which is a more complicated process that requires a lot more skill - therefore we suggest a professional fitter for LVT.

Room suitability

All laminate floors are connected using a built-in locking mechanism and applied over an underlay (known as a floating floor system) with no demand for glue or nails. This creates installing laminate floors a doable DIY job.
Vinyl floors, meanwhile, are mainly glued down, which is a more complicated method that needs a lot more skill - therefore we suggest a professional fitter for LVT.

Insulation

We all know how hard gravel or ceramic floors can be. Opting for an LVT is a good way of having a floor that provides the desired outcome of tile but is much warmer under the feet. Adding an underlay will deliver that extra touch of warmth.
As for laminate flooring, selecting a thicker laminate will result in a finer insulated floor.

Which is suitable for underfloor heating?

Both floors perform very well with most underfloor heating systems and can revolt floor temperatures of up to 27 Celsius.

LVT and laminate flooring effects and styles

We have a lavish range of LVT style options and laminate styles and effects available. With both laminate floors and LVT, the layout you see on top is a high-definition photograph prepared to replicate natural materials. This is printed on the tile/board before being coated with the scratch-resistant wear layer. Both floors have the alternative of bevelled rims and a textured finish, too.
The only true difference here is that laminate floors mostly replicate wooden boards, whereas LVT has a much wider preference for both wood and stone tile designs. Because of this, your floor can have nearly any design potential, making LVT and Laminate floors prominent options for the design-conscious.

5. Bathroom Flooring

Although bathrooms don’t appear like particularly hostile environments, the frequently changing levels of moisture mixed with splashing water can harm certain floors. Because of this, it’s very crucial to know which bathroom flooring you should select. Luckily, we have several explanations for a great-looking, water-resistant floor.

Luxury Vinyl Tiles

All our Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT) are entirely waterproof. Being an artificial material, vinyl simply won’t react with the water, which means you’ll never have to be concerned about moisture damage to your bathroom floor.

Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring has exceptionally good moisture resistance, but splashes can exude in over time if they’re not dried up, so make sure you dry them straight away. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance floor, review our range of waterproof T-build laminates all of which are 100% waterproof!

Real Wood / Natural Carpets

If you’re looking for real wood (solid or engineered) or natural carpet floors, we’d suggest against them. Over time real wood flooring could fudge in the changing moisture and our natural carpets can be strained by water.

6. Kitchen Flooring

Whether you’re the type of cook that drives works of art or the style that could burn water, you’ll know how desperate things can get in the kitchen. Scrambling feet, heat from the fryer, splashes from the sink – all of these things can harm a kitchen floor. Here we’ll illustrate your best options for a kitchen floor that is built to endure.

Luxury Vinyl Tiles

All our Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT) are waterproof. As they are built from PVC, vinyl normally won't react with water. They are also hard enough to endure high traffic without denting or scratching due to their hard wear layer. In short, LVT is the toughest kitchen floor deal.

Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is challenging against scratches and fairly immune to moisture, but splashes can exude in over time so remember to dry up splashes as soon as possible! If you’re searching for a low-maintenance kitchen floor, T-build's Impressive range is a 100% waterproof laminate floor with an ultra-realistic textured finish – excellent for your kitchen.

Real Wood / Natural Carpets

If you're looking for solid wood or natural carpet floors, we'd suggest against them for the kitchen. Solid wood flooring can bend in the changing moisture and our Natural Carpets can be harmed by the water. Oiled engineered floors aren’t preferred as they deliver less moisture resistance than lacquered floors.
If you’re set on the luxury of a real wood kitchen floor, lacquered engineered boards are your finest bet, as the finish will allow them to resist splashes, and engineered floors are created to withstand changing temperatures. Always dry up splashes quickly.

7. Which Floors Can You Use With Underfloor Heating?

Underfloor heating is an excellent and efficient heating system. However, its design means it's in close touch with the floor. Because of this, not every floor can be applied over underfloor heating.
It's good to use laminate, engineered, and luxury vinyl tiles, as these floors are all designed to manage dramatic temperature shifts. However, it's always good to double-check with the product manufacturer and remember that no floor should be disclosed to temperatures above 27 degrees Celsius.

Floors Not Suitable to Lay Over Underfloor Heating

Besides Juncker's floors, solid wood is not so relevant. You can't set solid wood floors with underfloor heating because the high heat can dry them out, driving them to shrink and creating cracks in the floor. When the heating bears off again, the wood reabsorbs moisture and extends, which can push it to swell and buckle.

Hints & Tips

Follow our underfloor heating hint to ensure you don't experience issues during and after installation.
The heat needs to be laid evenly across the floor, with no hotspots.
Floors must be applied close to the subfloor, with no cracks between the layers, so the floor doesn't dry out.
The comparative humidity of the room should be less than 60% both during and after the installation.
We provide several uniquely designed, ultra-low tog deal underlays specially invented for underfloor heating systems. Stay clear of fibreboard or wide acoustic underlays, as these will decrease the efficiency of the underfloor heating system. Regardless of which underlay you choose, be sure it has a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane).

Laminate Flooring Suitable for Underfloor Heating

We have the best laminate flooring for underfloor heating from top brands such as T-build, T-build, and T-build Traditions in an extensive range of colours and thicknesses. Laminate is particularly suitable for underfloor heating systems because it is hard-wearing and not tending to warp under temperature shifts.
When shopping our laminate content – make sure you read each product explanation to ensure it reads "suited for use with underfloor heating". You'll need to follow our suggestions and tips above to ensure you experience no issues during installation.

Luxury Vinyl Flooring Suitable for Underfloor Heating

LVT is another highly long-lasting flooring material making it one of the best choices for installing above-underfloor heating. It's excellent as it can expand and contract with temperature shifts. You can shop an extensive range of LVT compatible with underfloor heating from renowned brands such as Polyflor, Karndean, and T-build Livyn. Again, confirm you double-check each product page to find our "appropriate for use with underfloor heating" certification and follow our installation suggestion.

Engineered Wood Floor for Underfloor Heating

If you want a friendly underfoot wood floor in your home, engineered wood is the best kind of wood to use for underfloor heating as it reacts well to shifts in temperature. A suitable thickness choice is 15mm thick to allow heat to pass through efficiently. There are many engineered types, colours, and brands to select from – check each product page to find the "suited for use with underfloor heating" certification.

8. How To Acclimatise Your Floor

Unless you live in a warehouse, your home will be a very distinct environment from the one our flooring is used to. This contrast in humidity and temperature can push the flooring to extend and contract very slightly once it’s brought indoors – but this small difference could signify your floor gets installed poorly.
Because of this, we suggest acclimatising your flooring before suiting. Luckily, whilst this is essential, it’s also incredibly simple! Try to maintain the room at the temperature it’ll be when you utilise it.
Different floors will have their requirements, so we suggest consulting the manufacturer’s instructions.

9. What Should You Consider When Choosing A Floor?

Unless you live in a warehouse, your home will be a very distinct environment from the one our flooring is used to. This contrast in humidity and temperature can push the flooring to extend and contract very slightly once it’s brought indoors – but this small difference could signify your floor gets installed poorly.
Because of this, we suggest acclimatising your flooring before suiting. Luckily, whilst this is essential, it’s also incredibly simple! Try to maintain the room at the temperature it’ll be when you utilise it.
Different floors will have their requirements, so we suggest consulting the manufacturer’s instructions.

What room you are laying your floor

Various floors are better suitable for certain environments. Temperature and moisture levels in the room are the major factors, so it’s better to make sure your floor is up for the job.

The size of your room

It's impossible to tell the possible cost of a floor without understanding how much of it you need, so it’s well worth calculating your floor before looking around. Have a look at our guide to understand how to do this precisely.

If you have underfloor heating

Underfloor heating is becoming more popular in recent years, but it’s crucial to know that Solid Wood floors can fudge if they get too hot. T-build are the only reliable wood floor we sell that can be placed with underfloor heating.

How well your floor will cope with scratches

Vinyl and Laminate flooring are very immune to scratches thanks to their tough outer layer. Solid and Engineered flooring is a little easier to scratch and dent, but, if you require to, you can grind them down and refinish them – this will leave them fine as new.

How long your floor will last

All our floors are made to survive for generations, but some floors will last prolonged than others, and there are many forms you can add decades into your floor’s life.

How easy your floor is to install

In theory, any of our floors can be put in place without a professional, but some are simpler than others, and we’d only suggest the DIY process if you are sure you can do it correctly.

10. Can I Use A Steam Cleaner On My Floor?

We've all seen the amazing adverts on the television and we often get calls here at our office from clients wondering if they can use a steam cleaner on their floor.


Steam cleaners perform by forcing steam onto a floor's shell under high strain - the idea is that the steam turns the dirt and fades quickly afterward. This sounds great, but releasing steam at high pressure tells you you'll be forcing moisture into the joints of your floor and between the layers that make up your floor. Even though it looks like it's dry briefly afterward, frequently moistening your floor could make it rush, curve, or de-laminate, eventually causing the layers to peel apart. Not a good look!


Steam cleaners can harm solid wood, laminate, engineered, and vinyl floors. The impacts may differ between materials: a dulling of the finish, discolouring, maybe bending, cupping, or cracking, etc., But no floor is safe!


Instead of using a steam cleaner, we suggest vacuuming your floor as frequently as possible and washing it once a week. When you reach to clean it, stay away from bleach-based products and large, messy mops. There are plenty of products created to clean your exact kind of floor, and microfiber mops are particularly sufficient for picking up dirt. Proficient cleaners don't need water and leave your floor sparkling and undamaged.

11. How Many Design Strips do I Need?

Estimating the number of design stripes you require to improve your vinyl floor can appear very challenging at first. But as long as you understand the size of both your tiles and your room, we’ll assist you to figure out the amount you require in four easy steps.

Calculate the size of your room.

Luckily, we’ve already arranged together a guide on how to do this efficiently.

Compute how many packages of flooring you’re purchasing.

This couldn’t be peaceful, simply discover your floor on our site, and type in the space of your room in the grey box on the product page itself. Our website will estimate the number of boxes you need.

Calculate your strips.

Pick a calculator and multiply the number of boxes you’re purchasing by the number in the right-hand column – this is the number of boxes of plan stripes you require to buy. Design stripes only reach in full packs, so remember to round up to the next full number.

The below measures are for tiles with stripes along all four sides for a grouting impact. If you’re feeling like doing something additional, please call us for guidance.

The below estimates are for planks with strips along their longest cutter for a ship’s decking impact. If you’re thinking of doing something diverse, please call us for guidance.

Please note, these numbers do not account for junk or any other job site requirements that may impact the actual amounts required to meet your design floor.

12. What are flooring trims?

Here we've gathered data on all of our flooring trims and profiles into a single, extensive guide, meaning you can discover all the details you require on just one page!

What are Threshold Trims?

Threshold trims are T-shaped fragments of wood that are used to conceal the gap between 2 units of flooring. Threshold trims are excellent for transferring between various areas in open-plan homes or for bigger rooms where you might want to leave an expansion gap.

What are Ramp Trims?

Ramp trims are prominent for bridging the crack between two sections of flooring which change a little. This is mostly beneficial if you're applying a new floor on top of an existing floor. Without a ramp trim, you'll end up with an unattractive step - and a filthy trip risk!

What are Carpet Reducer Trims?

A carpet tile reducer is somewhere between an entryway frame and a ramp trim. It's applied for merging two spots of flooring which sit at distinct heights - a good instance of this is the height contrast between a carpet and a wood floor.

What are Edge Trims?

Edge trims are applied where your floor fulfils qualities in your homes like fire hearths or deck doors. They can also be employed to produce open doormats which sit level with the remains of your floor.

What is Stair Nosing?

Stair Nosing is conceived to develop a secure surface for the edges of your stairs, for a slick shift between the flanks and the top of each step. Without stair nosing, your staircase will appear scruffy and the rims of the floor will soon get shattered.

What is Scotia?

There may be events when you want to order a new floor but don't desire to replace the skirting panels. If this is the case then you'll require a scotia. What is a scotia? It's a tiny span of wood that elegantly conceals the expansion cracks at the rim of your flooring without being as observable as a skirting board.

What are Pipe Covers?

Pipe covers are excellent for hiding the small expansion gap you'll discover around your tubes. The two halves shouldn't be stuck straight to the base; rather, they should be glued jointly around the pipe. The surface will conceal the expansion hole and allow your pipes to merge in with your floor.

What is a Laminate Incizo profile?

The 5-in-1 Incizo Profile is an exclusively brilliant mechanism that can be used in several manners. Conceived to function with laminate floors by T-build and Pergo, the Incizo profile bridges the cracks between bases of the same size and different measurements, as well as working as an Edge Trim and stair nosing.

13. Should I install my floor underneath the kitchen units?

If you're replacing the floor in your kitchen, you may be unsure of how to handle the cabinets and appliances. For example, should you put the floor all the way under the refrigerator, or just to the edges? The subject is hotly contested online, but there are no definitive solutions. To make things simpler for you:
We believe that rather than attempting to install below the units and appliances, you are much, much better off placing your floor up to their edges. Inquiring as to why? Here are our top 5 explanations:

  1. Save some cash for yourself! Even the most exquisite floor in the world is useless if it will be buried beneath the oven. There is no need to spend additional money to move the floor so that it is hidden; keep it where everyone can see it.
  2. Kitchen cabinets can occasionally be very heavy (and frequently uneven), which puts a lot of strain on certain sections of your floor. This can eventually lead to the floor giving way and breaking.
  3. Since your floor is laid last, there is little danger that it will be dented or scratched by construction personnel or storage units. The image of a fridge being dragged over freshly installed flooring is the worst!
  4. Leaving your floor till last allows you to measure your room with the greatest accuracy while taking your units into consideration. Once more, this is a fantastic approach to reduce wasteful spending.
  5. Finally, you'll see how much simpler it is if you only install to the edges if you ever decide to change your floor (but want to maintain the units).

Here are 5 compelling arguments against putting your floor underneath kitchen cabinets and appliances. Please feel free to use the contact form on the right side of the page to ask any additional questions you may have.

Uncertain of which floors would work best in a kitchen. For a kitchen floor, vinyl and our selection of waterproof laminates are both excellent options.

14. Which underlay do I need with my floor?

Firstly, what is an underlay?

A sheet of material called an underlay is placed between the subfloor and the floor. It helps hide minor subfloor irregularities and maintains the floor level and stability while also acting as a sound and heat insulator.
Various underlay types are available according to your demands, therefore we've compiled a list of some of the more popular ones for your convenience.

Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) Underlays

A Damp Proof Membrane is a feature of all of these underlays (DPM). When installing over concrete subfloors or to shield your flooring from moisture coming from below, this is important.

T-build Bronze

For any installation on concrete, a DPM (damp proof membrane) layer that is integrated into the 3mm thick foam of this product is essential. It is light and simple to handle, and it fits and cuts easily. Fair sound absorption and heat insulation capabilities. It can be used both downstairs and upstairs of the house, though if noise is a problem, we advise taking into account a particular acoustic underlay.

T-build Silver Acoustic

As a good economical option, T-build Silver Acoustic provides good comfort, support, and recuperation. When bonded to a high-density foam core with strong compressive strength, a silver foil vapour barrier with a 200mm overlap serves as a fantastic DPM to protect your floor from moisture. Strong 18db sound impact reduction and thermal insulation properties. Although we advise taking into consideration a specific acoustic underlay if noise is an issue, it may also be utilised downstairs and upstairs in the house.

T-build Gold Acoustic

The remarkable performance of T-build Gold Acoustic provides comfort, support, and acoustic reduction of nearly 24dB. This product is perfect for underfloor heating systems because it also has good thermal insulation qualities. Minor floor flaws will be efficiently evened out by this non-toxic, non-dusting product. A high-density foam core with high compressive and recovery strength is bonded to a gold foil vapour barrier with a 200mm overlap, which serves as an excellent DPM to protect your floor from moisture.

Rapid Combifloor Plus

All T-build floors are compatible with this underlay. A built-in damp-proof membrane, which is necessary for concrete subfloors, is included in this underlay. It effectively reduces noise both within the room and downstairs. To be in compliance with the T-build Warranty, T-build underlay must be used.

T-build Unisound Combiflor

In addition to reducing noise from high heels and other sources inside the room, T-build Unisound Combiflor protects against rising moisture and is appropriate for underfloor heating. has DPM integrated. To be in compliance with the T-build Warranty, T-build underlay must be used.

Foam Underlays

These foam underlays are useful when a DPM is not always necessary. They aid in sound and heat insulation, and if necessary, they can still be installed with a DPM.

T-build Laminate Foam Underlay

An effective fundamental underlay that can be applied to any wooden subfloor. Use over concrete floors requires the installation of a damp-proof membrane first. To be in compliance with the T-build Warranty, T-build underlay must be used.

T-build Underlayment Foam

Use T-build foam underlay with laminate or wood flooring for the best results. The 2mm thick P.E. poly foam underlay lacks a DPM but does provide some sound and thermal insulation. The best application for this underlay is over chipboard or wood subfloors. Cut lengths to the nearest 1m2 are offered for sale.

15.When should I use commercial-grade flooring?

Which floor is ideal for a business? You're going to need a little bit unique if you're looking for a floor for your business. It will need to be durable, sturdy, and appealing. Here, we'll examine the top three choices for your business and highlight their individual strengths:

Solid wood and Engineered floors

When used properly, commercial engineered and solid wood floors might be your business's greatest flooring option. Real wood flooring has one important consideration: wood is not water-resistant, and too much moisture could cause your floor to warp. Consider a more water-resistant floor if you intend to damp mop your floor every night.

A commercial solid wood floor, however, may last you more than a century if you keep it dry. This is due to the fact that real wood can be refinished even if it can gradually lose its finish due to foot traffic and pulling furniture. Sanding down a wooden floor and adding fresh oil or varnish restores the floor's original beauty.

The thinner top veneer layer on engineered flooring makes them less refinishable than solid wood floors. Some heavier solid wood planks can be sanded 12 or more times, allowing you to have a beautiful floor that can last for as many generations as your business. The world's oldest basketball court, which opened in 1893, has the same solid wood floor in place today as just one illustration of this.

Laminate Flooring

Business owners all throughout the country love using commercial laminate flooring. This is an economical option to lay lovely flooring throughout the building, making it perfect for big rooms. Additionally, T-build Impressive is entirely waterproof while yet being water-resistant.

All laminate floors include a wear layer, which is a thin but durable coating that sits on top of the boards to shield them from dings, spills, and foot traffic. They can withstand far more abuse than a wooden floor because of this.

It's important to be aware that laminate boards cannot be refinished once they have sustained damage or wear. Instead, we advise replacing broken boards one at a time (this is simple because laminate flooring doesn't require glue to be installed).

A laminate floor's durability is determined by its AC rating, which varies from 1 to 5. While AC3-AC5 rated floors can be used in a range of business settings, AC1-AC2 rated floors are more suited to residential settings. The AC rating needs to be higher the more traffic your floor will see.

Vinyl Floors

Consider industrial vinyl flooring if your floor will frequently come into contact with water. All of the advantages of laminate are present in vinyl, but it also has the bonus of being totally waterproof. Many people avoid vinyl because it conjures up images of cheap vinyl sheets or industrial linoleum. Although this flooring serves a purpose, we no longer sell it because technology has advanced so far.

Instead, we favour flooring made of luxury vinyl tile (LVT). These floorings are highly durable and have some incredibly lifelike designs. A fully waterproof, scratch-resistant tile, an LVT floor may be restored to look brand new if it ever loses its polish.

In addition to all of this, LVT is available in an infinite variety of designs, so you can be sure to discover the ideal floor for your company.

16.How do I install a floor on my stairs?

Using solid, engineered, or laminate flooring, the technique for installing it on a staircase is fairly same. Because some LVT floor patterns don't have adequate friction, we advise against using them on the stairs.

1. Preparing the surfaces:

First, take off any existing cladding from the steps. Depending on the type of flooring you have, the procedure will vary, but make sure to clear the stairs of any flooring components, nails, and staples. After that, sand the surfaces to make them flat and adhesive-ready. Before you begin recladding the stairs, make sure you sweep and clean them; it will make the procedure much simpler.

2. The Risers:

Take a riser measurement (the vertical piece which goes on the front of the stairs). It is important to measure the staircase from all four sides because some stairs can be unequal. Cut your flooring to size now, allowing the panel to completely fill the space. Apply glue to the board in the shape of an S, then press the riser into position. Hold it firmly in place for a few seconds until it can support itself (it will take more time to properly set so remember to be careful with it until then).

3. The Treads:

Measure the tread now (the horizontal piece which goes on the top of the stairs). Be sure to account for varying proportions on the stair sides, just like with the riser. Depending on the type of nosing you're using, you'll need to take a small amount of the end after you've taken your measures in order to fit it on. Now that engineered or solid wood flooring can be installed, the tread can be glued down using an S-shaped adhesive pattern.

4. The Nosing:

For solid and engineered floors, the stair nosing should fit over the top, maintaining its position with the locking mechanism, unlike laminate floors where a nose base must be installed before the tread is laid. Regardless of the style you choose, make sure to double-check all the measurements before cutting to ensure a good fit. Apply adhesive along the nosing and fit into position when you're ready.
Simply repeat the procedure for each of your stairs, taking care to measure precisely, and let the glue dry before utilising the stairs once more. Your brand-new cladded steps are ready!

17.Which underlays reduce sound?

It's a rare moment when you discover a small oasis of peace and quiet in your own home because the world may be a noisy place.

It's helpful to know that the correct underlay may quiet your home and mute the sound of your footfall because of this. There are basically two types of noise insulation; Transit Sound is the most popular form and it muffles the sound of your footsteps entering the room below. Drum Sound, which is less prevalent, really makes your footsteps quieter in the space you're in.

Drum Noise Insulation is a feature of two of our underlays, the T-build Silent Walk 17Db and the T-build Unisound Combiflor - 19Db. They work well with engineered or laminate floors and are excellent for skulking around for late-night nibbles.

While waiting, choose from a variety of underlays that have transit sound insulation. If you live in a flat, this is quite practical to place it above the bottom floor and might provide you peace of mind. These underlays will mute any footfall pitter-patter. In the list below, we've listed the transit sound reduction next to each item so you can see just how much noise the underlay will absorb.